Researchers at Imperial College London have successfully genetically engineered bacteria to produce animal-and plastic-free leather that dyes itself. This innovation could revolutionize the way we produce clothing and accessories, offering a greener alternative to traditional dyeing methods that pose significant environmental risks.
The fashion industry has long grappled with environmental challenges, particularly in dyeing processes where synthetic chemicals are commonly used. Black dyes, frequently utilized in coloring leather, have been singled out as particularly harmful. However, this new approach leverages the power of biology to mitigate these concerns.
“Traditional dyeing methods are not only harmful to the environment but also pose health risks to workers and consumers alike,” says Professor Tom Ellis, the lead author of the study. “By harnessing the capabilities of genetically engineered bacteria, we aim to offer a sustainable solution to these longstanding issues.”
The Process of Creating Vegan Leather from Bacteria
The researchers focused on bacterial cellulose, a natural biomaterial with versatile properties, produced most effectively by bacteria in the genus Komagataeibacter. By genetically modifying bacteria to produce sheets of bacterial cellulose and the dark black pigment eumelanin simultaneously, they laid the foundation for self-dyeing leather production.
“Our goal was to mimic the natural processes of coloration found in organisms like octopuses and chameleons,” explains Dr. Kenneth Walker, a co-author of the research. “By engineering bacteria to produce eumelanin, we’ve essentially created a living dye factory.”
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Professor Tom Ellis, the lead author of the study, emphasized the significance of this achievement: “Inventing a new, faster way to produce sustainable, self-dyed leather alternatives is a major achievement. Bacterial cellulose is inherently vegan and offers substantial environmental benefits compared to traditional leather production.”
The role of genetic engineering
The collaboration between scientists and designers played a pivotal role in the development of this technology. Working together, they cultivated bacterial cellulose in shoe-shaped molds to create prototypes for shoes and wallets. This demonstrated the scalability and practicality of the process, paving the way for real-world applications.
Dr. Kenneth Walker, a co-author of the research, highlighted the importance of interdisciplinary collaboration: “Our technique works at large enough scales to create real-life products, as shown by our prototypes. The involvement of designers is crucial in championing these new materials and ensuring their functionality and aesthetics meet consumer expectations.”
Integrating biology into the design process opens up endless possibilities for sustainable fashion,” remarks a fashion designer involved in the project. “The ability to grow materials with specific colors and patterns directly from bacteria is truly remarkable.”
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Environmental Impact
Looking ahead, the researchers aim to expand the range of colors and patterns achievable through bacterial cellulose production. The recent £2 million funding from the Biotechnology and Biological Sciences Research Council will further support their efforts to address additional environmental challenges in the fashion industry.
Professor Ellis expressed optimism about the future impact of microbial-based textiles: “Microbes offer a sustainable solution to many of the problems associated with traditional leather production. By harnessing their potential, we can make significant strides towards greener clothing production.”
“The potential environmental benefits of this technology are immense,” states Professor Ellis. “Not only does bacterial cellulose offer a more sustainable alternative to traditional leather, but it also biodegrades safely and non-toxically, minimizing its impact on the environment.”
Professor Ellis concludes: “Microbes are already directly addressing many of the problems of animal and plastic-based leather, and we plan to get them ready to expand into new colours, materials and maybe patterns too.
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“We look forward to working with the fashion industry to make the clothes we wear greener throughout the whole production line.”
The team is trying out different colors that the bacteria can produce. Professor Ellis says that bacteria can help solve many problems. They want to make them able to create even more colors and materials. The researchers and their partners just got £2 million ($2.5 million) in funding. They’ll use this money to improve the bacteria and find solutions to more fashion problems.
Journal Reference: “Self-pigmenting textiles grown from cellulose-producing bacteria with engineered tyrosinase expression” by Walker et al., is published in Nature Biotechnology.
